
Фото pixabay.com
National Geographic – американская ТВ-сеть, транслирующая научно-популярные фильмы по темам науки, природы, культуры и истории. Ее сотрудник Пол Салопек делится впечатлениями о Кипре.
Уже несколько лет Пол Салопек идет по пути первой миграции людей из Африки, который должен составить 24 000 миль, то есть почти 40 000 километров. Кипр, один из старейших из ныне обитаемых островов, стал его первой остановкой после пешего исследования Среднего Востока. Он прошел остров в 2014 году. А недавно поделился впечатлениями в интервью, из которого мы приводим интересные цитаты.
Основные тезисы о Кипре коротко: пляжи, заполненные загорающими британцами и русскими, оживленный портовый город и шахматная доска оливковых рощ и желтых соломенных полей. Также исследователь NG обнаружил «рудиментарную» линию, разграничивающую греческую и турецкую общины. Кипр, по его словам, популярное курортное направление, и уже тысячи лет – центр торговли и миграции.
«Первые жители Кипра тоже прибыли по морю. Судя по тому, что мы знаем из археологии, они были одними из первых поселенцев, основавших деревни, совершив переход от охотников-собирателей к оседлости. Когда они прибыли на Кипр около 12 тысяч лет назад, на острове обитали карликовые бегемоты и слоны. Поселенцы съели их всех. А затем занялись сельским хозяйством».
«По прошествии столетий они стали очень могущественными, потому что обнаружили, что владеют очень ценным ресурсом – медью. В медный век, который сменился на бронзовый, они сидели на вершине гигантского банковского счета».
«Остров подвергался вторжению со стороны разных цивилизаций: финикийцев, египтян, ассирийцев, персов, византийцев, арабов, османов – список можно продолжать бесконечно. Это оставило отпечаток на ДНК, слой за слоем. И думаю, это влияет и сейчас: они принимают тысячи мигрантов».
«Мое пешее путешествие обычно проходит с местными жителями. Но особенность кипрского этапа в том, что я прошел остров в одиночку. Кипр уникален. Я прошел уже около 20 стран, но Кипр – единственный, по которому я шел один. Я восемь дней бродил по острову, через эти красивые горы, покрытые рожковыми деревьями, оливковыми рощами, золотыми полями и белыми меловыми дорогами. И мог обойтись английским, потому что самая последняя волна кочевников Кипра – это туристы».
«Путешествие по Кипру было похоже на визит на многоязычный базар. Я увидел грузчиков, говоривших на североафриканских языках. Чуть дальше – индийских рабочих, вспахивающих поля и слушающих в наушниках ситарную музыку. Российских туристов, лежащих рядами на пляжах. Очень многоязычное место».
«Зеленая линия – это граница, которая оказалась на линии фронта. Там были мешки с песком. Какая-то ничейная земля. Но она открыта. И через нее идет торговля. И когда я разговаривал с киприотами на греческой стороне и с киприотами на северной турецкой стороне, я спросил: ребята, как вы с этим живете, ведь прошло уже 50 лет. Они сказали: мы больше похожи друг на друга, чем на Грецию или Турцию».
«Эта граница становится все более проницаемой, в то время как многие другие по всему миру ужесточаются. Люди надеются, что что-то заставит эту границу полностью исчезнуть».
«Город-призрак Европы, в котором раньше проживало около 39 000 человек. Это был один из самых известных курортов Средиземноморья. Кинозвезды 1970-х приезжали сюда отдыхать. Но он находится на линии фронта и является спорной территорией, поэтому разрушается под этим солнцем. В пятизвездочных отелях теперь живут чайки. Пляжи пусты».
Текст подготовлен по материалам The World
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